![]() ![]() except 3 very thin layers of the tru oil. So did the same on the air rifle barrel, breech etc. Well it lasted yrs when it was not really meant to. degrease water based tyre black, build up with thin layers till a nice even looking 3 may 4. Some yrs back on the suspension one of the vintage cars, I sorts experimented. L4 lockadown, Im not set up to do so properly, thought about black 2 pot automotive, enamel with and without plus 1. I looked at blueing the steel on the air rifle. once put all that extra work in, and the perfection of the surface you will never use itĪnyway after the 1st few 800 grit layers, go to 1200 for the last couple, then the finish. You may get a bit anal at this point, because as you lightly sand, in the reflection of the light you see the tiny est scratch, hollow, imperfection, and can sort of block these out as the number layers are put on. no more.ġ8 to 24 hrs later, a wipe with 800 grit sand paper, wipe down any dust. Spread/ rub till just feel the slight drag. Then rubbed in section by section, give an idea a big 'section' would be one side of the stock from wrist to front end. put on top of the bottle and gently skaken, not turned over to wet the rag. Used a tiny bits of an old linen bed sheet about 4cm X 3cm max. I do like tru oil thu.about 1/4 or less of a small bottle I put around 8 to 10 coats on the gun stock. Natural finish, gets bit scrappy, so long as dry, pour and spread out a layer and leave to soak in couple days. Made a macrocapa slab mantle piece (same home as above) using raw linseed. Next updates will be a bit slower to come, the small router demands bloody jigs for the tiniest cut, hahaĪnother option is just oil it. Now the handle fits like a glove - think it was worth the effort, I learned lots about resins and how to clean them up from the shop floor. I regularly checked for fit wearing my dive glove and managed to slowly rotate my grip by carving out an indentation for my palm. Finally I mixed the micarta with teak and started sanding… and then some more sanding. Use white resin dye if you need the fluoro pop even more. Alternating with dark cloth looks nice too, but a bit dull. Pick a white cloth that stays white when wet (dipping the cloth in water is a good indicator of what the final hue will be). What I learned - high vis looks awesome in micarta if alternated with white. I cut up a whole lot of high vis vests and for every 2 layers of this colour used 2 of white cloth. For this I made my own micarta and experimented with different epoxies, dyes and cloth. In the meantime I invested a bit more time in the handle - this again took me ages and uncounted sanding drums, but I’m very happy with the outcome, especially since my first gun’s biggest fault was the distance between trigger and handle end. That was the event that let me reconsider and put it aside till now. They’re not this bad, I won’t bother sanding them out, but rather add some to make it even. I decided to make it a design feature again and named them “hydrodynamic speed dimples”. I grabbed the biggest and meanest table router bit i could find (I think around 60mm?) and got my beefier mate to push the stock as hard as possible against the bit – you see where this is going – the bearing pushed the dowels deeper into the rods resulting in a very unique pattern on the bottom of it, but only partly. For that I stuffed them with dowels and thought that may do the trick, one side towards the muzzle still had a thin strip of mdf attached which in hindsight was the better choice of course. When planning to rounding off the square blank I needed to fill in the holes of the carbon rod so that the bearing of the router bit could run smoothly along the edge. ![]() Ok, here’s for another c*** up on the gun, but I was to wound up to take pictures, you’ll see the results in the final anyway. Now is the time, Catchelot - one more week (or more?) to go. ![]()
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